Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
